To and Fro
I’m writing this
blog on my horrendously, unnecessarily, unexpectedly long journey from
China. Part of me feels that I can’t
complain too much at the moment as I am sipping a coke and sitting in a comfy
chair at Beijing international airport. The other part of me feels that I can
complain, I can complain a lot… If only
China had a suggestion box on how to improve their traveling standards… I could
fill the box right now with my complaints. My travels have entailed delayed flights,
grumpy taxi drivers, eye witness accounts of a iced tea box hurled in anger, a
lost phone and the list goes on and on.
I’ll start at the
beginning. My older brother sweetly
bought my ticket using his airline miles so he always knows what is going on
with my flights. He contacted me the
evening before I left for China to let me know that my first flight leaving
Pittsburgh was delayed. This was great
because it let me sleep in a little longer and I still had plenty of time to
make my connecting flight in Chicago.
From Chicago I boarded my long (14 hour) flight to Shanghai. I was fortunate and there were only two
people in the three person row so we had some extra leg room. My luck ran out in Shanghai. For reasons unknown to anyone, the flight
from Shanghai to Kunming was delayed about three hours. One thing that is really stressful here is
that when I am traveling I’m pretty unconnected. I have a “china phone” but can’t get the
simcard into it and working until I get to Kunming and someone helps me. That means that I’m without a phone. I sometimes have internet, but at a lot of
airports you access the internet by putting in a phone number and receiving a
text with a code… which circles us back to my original problem, I don’t have a
working phone. SOOO it’s really
stressful when plans fall through and I can’t contact people that are meeting
me. The organization that I am
volunteering with sent a driver to pick me up, but I couldn’t call her and she
doesn’t speak English and I don’t’ speak Chinese. I arrived in Kunming around 11:30 pm feeling
really tired. When I first arrived the
driver wasn’t there. That’s when I
started to panic. The airport is about
an hour from where I’m staying, I don’t have the address to where I’m staying,
the buses aren’t still running and I have no phone and no internet. When I panic I like to play “worst case
scenario,” to calm myself. This
basically involved running through the worst that can happen in the given
situation. At home in the States this
works well. It reminds me that my fears
are generally ridiculous and I regain my composure. In China I tend to have a little less
luck. Sometimes the worst case scenario
becomes something to the tune of “the taxi driver will kidnap me and traffic me
across the border to Vietnam where someone will sell my internal organs on the
black market and it will take my family days to even notice I’m missing
(everyone is used to not hearing from me for awhile because of poor internet
connections). Yep, the “worst case
scenario” game is not really a great idea when you’re traveling. Praying for a miracle (or at least peace of
mind) works better. In this case
however, I reminded myself that I could always sleep on the floor of the
airport and take a bus the next day to the organizations office. Just as I was scoping out where I could sleep
and considering trying to figure out the public phone system, my driver
appeared (all of this was probably only about 30 minutes, but it felt longer)! The
driver took me to the hotel where I ran into another issue. They didn’t seem to have my booking
information. The booking was done
through my organization and the hotel doesn’t give you confirmation or anything
so I had nothing to prove that I had a reservation. This is when I met my travel buddy for the
first time. There is an occupational
therapy student named April who was also volunteering with my organization and
we shared a room for the duration of my trip.
She had come in earlier that day and had already checked into our joint
room. Using my best Chinese, I try to
explain this to the hotel manager. I
said the sentence “my friend is here” in Chinese and that’s where my language
skills tapped out. The manager spoke a
little bit of English so he started asking me questions about April. April and I had emailed back and forth a
couple of times but I realized that I didn’t know that much about her. He was asking what her Chinese name is, where
she is from, what time she checked in and what her phone number is. My answer was “Wo bu zhidao” (I don’t
know) for every answer. He was probably questioning what
kind of friend I am! We ended up called
my friend who was making the arrangements and then calling April. At this point its about midnight. April answered the phone and I explained to
her what was going on. She is from Hong
Kong and speaks mandarin, so she was able to assure the manager that I was with
her. And that’s how April and I met! She was a gem from the very start to the very finish!
That night, I
panicked and wondered how I was going to make it in China for another two weeks
when the first day and a half had been so tiring. Luckily, I have the experience under my belt
to remind myself that the first day is always the hardest. Traveling is stressful for people who
appreciate control and reliability and sleeplessness never helps any
situation. As I sit here now, I can’t
believe that I’m already on my way home, with the exception of the trip there, and this section of the trip home, it went by so fast. Now for the saga of the trip home….
I guess I’ll start
with the car ride back from W.S. On
Wednesday afternoon I began my car ride back to KMG from W.S. The ride went well, it was just a little
squishy. The ride is generally between
3.5-4 hours and we rent a driver. The
driver charges by the person so he likes to fill up the car to make the trip
worth it for him (which makes sense-he drives round-trip and it’s a long day
for him). He picked me up at about 2:30
and it was just beginning to rain. I was
a little nervous because the car trip can be scary. The seat belts are normally not accessible in
the backseat and the driver goes pretty fast.
Also, two lane roads manage to become three lane roads and I’ve
frequently thought that we are going to have a head on collision with oncoming
traffic (also not a good time to play “worst case scenario”). The addition of the rain made me
anxious. Also, there were four of us in
the backseat this time… one person was a kid but he was about 10 so there were
still four bodies in the backseat for a long time. Our first hiccup was an accident… The road
was blocked and traffic was at a standstill.
It was interesting to watch because it was exactly like at home… first
people just sat in their car and then they start migrating out to look up the
road to see if they can see anything.
Eventually we were able to get through.
Then we hit KMG traffic. All in
all it was about a five-hour trip I think?
Thursday, I began
my trek back to the States. The day
began with a lovely lunch with one of my friends from last year… It’s been
great catching up with people! I also
stayed at her house on Wednesday, which was a blessing! It’s really encouraging to talk with the
folks working in China full-time and hear what they are up to. My trip to the airport went smoothly… my
friends elevator is broken so I/we had to drag my stuff up and down her ten
flights of stairs with was not the greatest thing ever but it was a good
reminder that I really need to learn how to pack lighter : )
My true adventures
began at the KMG airport. Anyone who
doesn’t have a soft spot for McDonalds has probably not spent a significant
amount of time eating rice. I LOVE
Chinese food, LOVE IT! But, coming from
home, where we have such as varied diet (Mexican, Chinese, Italian, American),
I need a break from rice or noodles for every meal. McDonalds generally beckons to me like a
lighthouse in the midst of a hurricane.
The golden arches call out my name and I answer. I was
looking forward to getting a hamburger and some fries for dinner so I went to
McDonalds to eat before boarding the plane.
The café version of McDonalds that is on the departure floor has a
limited menu so I could only get chicken, which was sad, but ok. The problem was that either I got the wrong
persons order or my order got lost in translation and I ended up with a spicy
chicken sandwich and a spicy chicken leg, no fries : ( By the time I opened my bag, it was too late
to take it back so I tried to eat it, but it was really spicy so I ended up
giving up on dinner and heading to my gate.
As I went through security, I was by a group of about 25 elementary
school kids wearing matching shirts, hats and had name tags around their
necks. I watched which line they were
going in and made sure that I didn’t get behind them (I’ll admit it, I’m very
judgmental at airports—I have certain people that I don’t really like to be
around and children and dogs are really high on my avoidance list). Well, as luck would have it, I ended up
sitting on the floor of the Kunming airport with those same kids for FIVE HOURS
waiting for the plane to board. It truly
was the most absurd airport situation I have had. The airplane was there and all of us were
sitting or standing in line and they just weren’t boarding the plane FOR FIVE
HOURS. The communication barrier is
generally not too bad while traveling via plane. Airports have the signs in English and
Chinese and announcements such as “don’t leave your bag unattended” are also
translated. The problem comes when there
is a problem. In this situation, the
airline worker behind our desk would make an announcement that pertained to our
flight, everyone would groan and I would look around confused. In theses situations, I figure out early on
who is on my flight and keep my eye on them.
This is where the kids came in handy… there was no way that I wouldn’t
hear 25 elementary school kids boarding a plane. As generally happens, a kind soul took notice
of me. The airline guy started talking
to one of the female staff members and was pointing at me. I gathered that she was the resident
translator and she came over to me (at this point everyone is standing in line
with their tickets still in hand) and said that the flight is delayed for an
“undetermined amount of time” and that I should go and sit down and take a
rest. I thanked her for letting me know
and sat down on the floor (the gate that we happened to be at didn’t really
have any seats near enough for people to see the gate so everyone was
congregating on the floor). I sat there
for a long time. Then I saw the drinks
come out. I’ve learned that once free stuff
arrives you’re in it for the long haul.
The crewmember came running over to me with free snacks, which again was
so kind! The scary moment was when they
made the free snack announcement and I realized that I was between the kids and
the iced tea. I really thought that I
was going to be trampled! I was on the
floor sitting against a sign-post and the herd of hungry, excited children ascended
on the snack area. Picture Simba from
The Lion King during the wildebeast scene.
One of the kids was so close to my body that his name tag was hitting me
in the nose. I didn’t know if it was
safer to stay still or try to run. The
next bit of excitement was the fight. A
women threw one of the free iced tea boxes at the crewmember behind the
desk! I dodged it so it didn’t actually
hit him, but it was pretty dramatic.
Then he said sometime back to her and her husband/boyfriend picked up an
apple and raised it up like he was going to stone the guy. I watched in amazement as a crowd gathered
around and everyone yelled. At this
point I REALLY wanted a translator!
There are more foreigners in China then there used to be, but there are
still few enough that you notice them when you’re out and about. I had noticed two other foreigners in the
airport. One was a white guy traveling
alone and the other was this white guy and his Asian girlfriend/wife. Jackpot!
Someone who most likely speaks English with someone who most likely
speaks Chinese! I went over to him and
asked if he know what was happening. He
told me that he wasn’t sure but his wife was going to ask. After another hour or so the second round of
free drinks came out. NOT good
again. Then the ultimate dagger…. The
blankets. I’ve never made it to the
blanket stage. When an airline starts
handing out blankets like you’re in an emergency shelter, you’re going to be
there for a while. Let me just make a
comment about the kids. They filled me
with a roller-coaster of emotions.
Sometimes they drove me nuts… they got bored and started racing each
other on the baggage carts. This was fun
to watch but we were in a tight space so it was also a little annoying. They also noticed my presence in their
vicinity gradually. I love the statement
of the obvious, I heard the sentence “there’s a foreigner” about ten times that
evening. There were also a couple of
giggles as kids dared each other to come say something to me in English, I
heard them rehearsing “hello, how are you?”
But I loved watching them when the blankets came out. They loved it! They gathered up their circle of friends and
made little beds on the floor of the airport.
Childhood gives us the blessing of making the best of the situations
that us adults throw iced tea boxes over.
At some point they finally told the public that we were delayed because
there was nowhere to land in Beijing.
The plane was there on time… why was there nowhere to land in
Beijing? After getting my blanket, I
went over to curl up in a corner by the electronic charging station. Then finally, it was time to board. The other foreigner was also charging his
devices and he told me (they didn’t announce anything). Once again, I love how sweet people are, the
women married to the foreigner saw me and said “oh good, you heard, I just sent
my husband out to find you so you didn’t get left behind.” There are angels all around and may I always look for opportunities to be one as I have been blessed soooo many times : )
The flight went
well with the exception of the fact that EVERYONE was grumpy, except the
kids! They ooooed and awwwed as the
flight took off. When we got to Beijing,
it was about 4:20am. China doesn’t have
time zones despite it’s size which is nice when you’re traveling because it
makes for easy math, but it means that the sun is coming up early somewhere… I
think that somewhere must be Beijing.
The sun (well there isn’t really any sun in Beijing, the pollution is
soooo thick that you can’t seen the sun but you can see the light coming from
the sun) was already up as I made my way to the taxi stand. Oh the taxi stand, another stressor of
traveling alone without much language.
I’ve learned the hard way that it’s not actually worth it to book the $7
hostels in Beijing. Mostly because they
are in obscure locations that no one knows and you end up driving in circles as
the meter rises almost as quickly as my blood pressure. That’s when I start fearing for my
kidneys. This time I booked a hotel that
is really close to the hotel and looks big enough that the taxi driver might
know it. I also made sure that I had the
address in Chinese characters and the phone number. Even with these precautions it was still
stressful. First of all, a guy that I
thought was a taxi driver came up to me and tried to get me to come with
him. This isn’t my first rodeo so I
realized that he was one of the unmarked cars which makes me uncomfortable
(honestly, he was probably fine, but I try to respect the rules of the airport
which requires taxis to be licensed). I
turned him down and then went to the marked taxi. That guy really didn’t want to take me. I don’t always understand what is happening
in these exchanges. Basically, the taxi
driver generally doesn’t want to take me and then the police come over and
force him to take me. I think part of it
is because I’m a foreigner. I feel like
foreigners were desirable passengers when the taxi drivers were setting their
own prices because we are less likely to know the going rate and more easily
tricked into a more expensive rate than a local person. Now they make the taxi drivers run their
meter so foreigners are just a pain to deal with and don’t result in any additional
money. Also, my hotel was so close it
was probably not good business. Whatever
the case, this guy was not happy. I
showed him the address and he told me that he didn’t know it. The police came over and told me to get into
the car. I asked the police if the taxi
driver knew the hotel, the driver said “no” the police told me that he does and
that I should get into the car. I’m
proud to say that this all happened in Chinese and I understood it! Then the driver is driving and asks me to
call the hotel. I have the number but am
trying to explain that my American phone won’t work in China. I ask him to call using his phone, he says
“no” and we continue to drive. I pray
instead of thinking about “the worst case scenario” and we arrive at the hotel
in a couple of minutes. It’s now 5am and
I am checking into my room. My original
plan was to get to the hotel at about 11:30, get a good nights sleep and then
enjoy a slow morning of solitude, quiet reflection, relaxation and prayer
before my trip home. AM I NEW HERE? Quiet reflection, relaxation, solitude? China is a lot of things that I love, it’s
exciting, it’s beautiful, and it’s filled with amazing people but I should know
by now that its lacking in the solitude and quiet reflection arena! I finally fell asleep and slept for about
four hours before making my way back to the airport.
The free shuttle
from the hotel to the airport was nice and I met a man who spoke English on my
way. He works for United Airlines and
assured me that the airlines are delayed all of the time. Great.
Well he was right because I got to Beijing airport, went through
security and found out that there is a 6.5 hour delay on my flight to the states. And here I sit. If anyone ever has any questions about the
Beijing airport, ask me. I know it all.
I’ve been to the advertised “reclining chairs” by gate E 24. They are amazing but there are only two, so
get there early and stay late. If you
leave to go to the bathroom, someone will take your chair. The wifi works on my phone but the VPN won’t
work… meaning I can only go on websites that China doesn’t block which doesn’t
do me any good. There is a beautiful
pagoda should you want a selfie. I almost
watched the short film about the imperial dynasty but haven’t reached that
level of desperation yet and need to save activities for the next couple of
hours. Don’t buy the tea sets, they are
extremely overpriced. Finally, it’s
always worth trying to get into the VIP lounge.
I’m flying on my brother’s air miles and so I might be allowed in the
lounge and I might not be. It’s kind of
a grey area. I try every time and it’s
about 50/50. They always ask for the
gold card which I don’t have. This time
I showed them a number on my receipt that may or may not be anything and asked
if they could look it up. She glanced at
it, made a phone call and said “yes, I think it’s ok.” Really all they are giving up is a can of
coke and I’m gaining access to the luxury of padded chairs, free beverages,
outlets and a really clean bathroom, so I appreciate that I was allowed
in. I think her sympathy was extended
when she looked at my ticket and saw that I was delayed for six hours. She commented that it’s a long time to
wait. I concurred. So
here I wait. Hoping that I don’t have to
reopen this document and extend the story.
I’ve already missed my connecting flight but there are a lot of flights
from Newark to Pittsburgh so I’ll just be a day late. I miss Bill and its time to be home so
hopefully the rest goes as planned.
Update: I missed my connecting flight but the airline
booked me a hotel and I was on the 8 am flight home to Bill : ) Bill picked me up at the airport and we
drove about 20 minutes before I started looking for my phone and couldn’t find
it. Bill called it and someone answered
it saying “Hello, this is the Pittsburgh International Airport.” That answered that question—back to the
airport we went. That ends my travels
for this time. I love to travel but
after this one trip I’ll be happy to stay away from airports for a little bit :
)
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Beijing Airport! The bottom right is my view from the reclining chair!
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Add caption |
KMG airport. The top left is the luggage cart system. It has an ipad attached to it. It seems like a good idea for a second until you think about a million people all looking down watching TV as they walk through the airport! The top right is one of the groups of kids. The bottom two are the campers on blankets.